Among John Lobb clients you can find kings, crown princes and princesses, movie stars, athletes and business people who are especially demanding in creating their own style and choosing shoes. We’ll talk about him with the special master-shoemaker of the company Francois Madonini, who specially arrived in Dubai.
Francois, please tell me where does tailoring shoes to order begin?
The first step is to take measurements from the customer’s feet. This process is very long and painstaking, it can take from four to six hours. After all, you need to consider all the smallest details. The second step is the manufacture of a wooden block for future shoes that perfectly matches the measurements taken. The third step is the production of a prototype of a future pair of leather boots. But this is not the final version of shoes, it’s just a model with which I once again double-check the accuracy of taking measurements and how comfortable the customer feels when he puts his shoes on his feet.
So, in more detail, how technically is this happening?
I take measurements from the customer’s feet in any John Lobb brand boutique located anywhere in the world where I fly to meet with a client. With ready-made measurements, I am flying back to London, where in our factory we produce first a block, and then a prototype. And then, with the finished prototype, I again fly to try on to the customer. During the fitting, I cut the prototype of the new shoes to make sure that the customer’s foot will be comfortable in the new shoes. After all, if I sew the most beautiful shoes, and the customer cannot wear them, what is the point?
Do you cut an almost finished shoe right like that?
Of course, I completely cut off the sock, check the seam on the heel, other seams.
No pity?
No, the prototype itself does not represent any particular value. Its main value is to later turn into luxurious shoes or shoes in which the customer will be comfortable. This is the main stage in the production of custom-made shoes. So now you have flown to Dubai to try on? Yes, and I'm waiting for the customer to cut prototypes made by his standards and check everything.
How long does it usually take to sew one pair of shoes to order?
It takes three months to make a prototype after taking measurements, and another three months after trying on the prototype to sew a finished pair of shoes. But this is the first order. If the same person orders other shoes at John Lobb, it will take six to eight weeks to sew it, because all the measurements and pads of this customer will already be stored with us. Moreover, we can accept all subsequent orders by phone or email. It is enough for the customer to tell us the color and quality of his chosen skin, and the model of shoes or shoes that he likes.
What, in your opinion, is the main difference between finished shoes and custom-made shoes?
Buying ready-made shoes, the buyer does not have the opportunity to change what he does not really like in him, he is forced to wear what he is. In John Lobb ready-made shoe collections, we usually present two or three primary colors: black, brown, gray. Less often - beige. When ordering individual tailoring of shoes, the buyer himself is involved in the creative process and can choose any texture and quality of leather - from ordinary calf to exotic - crocodile, snake, ostrich, from simple smooth to suede and nubuck. He himself chooses the color of his new boots, can indicate the thickness of the sole he needs and other parameters that will be taken into account by the master shoemaker.
How many years have you been working as a shoemaker?
John Lobb is nine years old.
And how many pairs of custom-made shoes have you made during this time?
Honestly, I didn’t. On average, we at John Lobb order about 100 pairs of shoes per year. My responsibilities include taking measurements and the final fit when trying on, and at all stages of the production of a pair of shoes, which are more than 170, the other 20 masters of the company work, each of which is responsible for its stage.
How often do you have to fly to your customers?
Almost every two months. I fly to Osaka, Tokyo, Seoul, Hong Kong, Moscow. In the Russian capital, we have a boutique in the Central Department Store.
What are the main reasons, besides the unsurpassed quality and status of your shoes, why Russian customers contact John Lobb? And what kind of shoes do they prefer?
Basically, this is a very large foot size. It is difficult for such people to pick up ready-made shoes. Typically, Russian customers order classic low shoes or shoes, however, they try to choose the sole not rubber, but rubber. This is a justifiable choice, because in Moscow it often rains. I think that Russians are the highest and largest of our customers. Therefore, shoes for them are the most expensive, because we calculate the price of a finished pair, based on size. On average, one pair of shoes that are custom-made with us costs the buyer 5-6 thousand euros.
Do you have many customers in Dubai who sew custom-made shoes?
So far, only three, since our boutique in Dubai was opened relatively recently. One of them is a citizen of the UAE, the second is a native of India, and the third is from Kazakhstan. But I think that we should tolerate until the market gets used to the services that John Lobb offers them.
Francois, can you recall what the most unusual shoes you had to sew?
The most unusual were bright yellow crocodile leather shoes, to which we also made a suitable belt. The customer was from Southeast Asia. That was three years ago. And two years ago we sewed a pair of boots and elephant skin, but now it is impossible, because such leather can not be found on the market. But I am very proud of these boots, because they turned out to be incredibly beautiful, despite the fact that the skin was very thick.
How long is John Lobb custom made shoes?
All his life, provided that the customer properly cares for his shoes and gives her a rest.
What does it mean?
This means that no leather shoes should be worn for several days in a row. It is better to wear it every other day, giving the shoe the opportunity to ventilate and "breathe". The ideal option is to leave the shoes for one day with the pad embedded inside, in order to avoid deformation.
Thanks for the story and advice, Francois. We wish you to visit Dubai more often at the request of new customers.
John Lobb's legacy and tradition of custom-made shoes emphasize its elegance and quality. A significant number of models, types and colors of skin creates a unique offer for the most demanding customers. Only the best leather is used to make shoes, and John Lobb's technology and professional secrets are carefully passed down from generation to generation. To create a complete image, the brand-name Jonh Lobb boutique, located in the largest Middle East shopping center Dubai Mall, also offers a large selection of belts, wallets and other leather accessories in the same colors and textures as the shoe models. You can also find a line of shoe care products here.
The interior of the boutique, which was developed in the architectural bureau of Rene Dumas, is executed in light colors using oak wood and the best finishing materials in order to present John Lobb collections of shoes and accessories as comfortably and carefully as possible. The design of the boutique reproduces the concept of brand boutiques in Paris, London, New York, Geneva, Tokyo and other world capitals. The classic shining yellow color of John Lobb creates a sophisticated, exquisitely comfortable atmosphere in the Dubai boutique, inviting the buyer to the wonderful world of John Lobb. A world that will give you shoes tailored for you.
