Text: Dariga Masenova LAST AUTUMN AT THE ETOILE "LA BOUTIQUE" STORE, A TEA CEREMONY WITH FIONA KOTUR MARIN was held. THE DESIGNER AND FOUNDER OF THE KOTUR BRAND PRESENTED THE SPRING-SUMMER COLLECTION OF EVENING CLUTCHES.
Your spring collection is full of colors and fun. What inspired you to create it?
Fiona: When I created the collection, I imagined how we are transforming into gypsies. This concentration of style, a passion for travel, and a quest for adventure are reflected in the collection. Our spring is rich in flowers and textures. I decided to send everyone to Marrakech with its exotic gardens and textured streets. We stopped at the Majorelle garden, where Yves Saint Laurent liked to stroll. There you can listen to the quiet murmur of water and enjoy the pure color of blue mosaics. Therefore, the python skin in Espeys models is painted in turquoise color. A fresh combination of lush greenery and fuchsia in the garden inspired the creation of Pearce, Levins and Getty models.
Having rested, I decided to look at another local attraction: a bazaar with its fragrant spices, surprises and oriental sweets. Margos brocade handbags are reminiscent of saffron, while Birdcage gold-colored models are complemented by soft purses with floral prints. Finally, away from city noise, we set off to meet the Bedouin tribes. As a result, a collection of contrasting black and white clutch bags by James, Peter Pouche, as well as macramé bags. The combination of lace and metallic color gave the desired effect.
Is it true that since childhood you dreamed of becoming a designer?
Fiona: I was born and raised in Manhattan. My mother Sheila Camera Kotur - a famous fashion illustrator and decorator, made illustrations of Christian Dior dresses. My sister Alexandra Cotur is a senior style editor at Vogue America.
Therefore, in our family there was always a creative spirit and a love of beauty. My personal love story for accessories began with my mother’s illustrations: even the way she painted details such as tags was a delight to me! I love to travel, so I am very grateful to fate that 10 years ago she brought me with her husband to Hong Kong. There I discovered a real treasure - authentic brocade handbags sewn by a talented 90-year-old tailor in a small factory.
I probably bought everything from him! As a result, my personal collection pushed me to open a brand, which I named by my maiden name Kotur.
The first collection of brocade bags was launched in 2004 in a glamorous retro style, and, to my surprise, was bought by major chains such as Bergdorf Goodman and Scoop in New York, Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong and Browns in London! Today I started a collaboration with the Etoile Group, which owns the Etoile boutique chain "La Boutique", which presents several lines of Kotur bags. They are excellent partners, and I am grateful to them for their support!
How has your vision changed in 10 years?
Fiona: I dreamed of building a bridge between new technologies and traditional crafts. Over the years, the collection has replenished with satchels and clutches of various sizes and bags over the shoulder. We added gold and silver colors, saturated shades of brown, red, green, blue, as well as traditional ones - white and black. We began to use feathers, Swarovski crystals, leather, including tanned, velvet, non-traditional lucite (acrylic plastic).
What do you pay the most attention to?
Fiona: I am very scrupulous about the details and try to make each model perfect. The process begins with my mother discussing ideas in her house in New York, she takes a pencil and begins to transfer my thoughts to paper. Kotur bags reflect my worldview. Sometimes they remind of some chests or caskets, sometimes they seem to be carved from marble or wood of extraordinary beauty, and sometimes models in the Art Deco style take me to the era of jazz!
A few seasons ago you launched a conceptual collection of your so-called transitional handbags (the American psychotherapist Wilhelm Reich called a women's bag one of the transitional objects, comparing it with soft toys of children - approx. Ed.). From daytime accessories, they easily turn into evening accessories and vice versa.
Are you continuing the idea?
Fiona: Yes, I understand that not everyone can wear small clutches for business meetings because of the volume. After all, a modern woman is forced to take a phone, cosmetics, a diary, a tablet with her ... Add to this list children's things, sketches and much more! A women's handbag is an unknown world. But sometimes you still want to be a little more glamorous. Therefore, I got the idea to create roomy luxury accessories on stylish chain straps that can be worn on the shoulder during the day and turned into clutches in the evening.
You sew excellent quality bags in China! What pricing policy do you follow?
Fiona: Like all modern New Yorkers, I strike a balance between chic and street style. This is the best and most economical way to create an original look. I was very lucky, because I found an excellent factory in the Far East. Mom and sister feed me creatively too. It seems to me that everyone should have a chance to express themselves, so I keep a wide range of prices - from US $ 300 to 3000. So everyone can find a piece of Kotur!
DOSSIER
Fiona Cotur Marine, after graduating from Wellsley College (taught by Vladimir Nabokov), graduated from the prestigious Yella, and honed her knowledge at the Parsons School of Design. She loves Oscar Wilde and F. Scott Fitzgerald, Frank Sinatra's songs. In childhood, she dreamed of becoming a costume designer.
Her first job began at Ralph Lauren. In 1995, she joined Gap Inc, as senior director of accessory design for the Old Navy line. Soon, she already became vice president of the children's department and supervised the work of the marketing and design team. The first stars to buy Kotur bags were Tilda Swinton and Drew Barrymore.
